news
The Journal of the Canadian Orchid Congress
Le Journal de la Fédération Canadienne des Sociétés Orchidophiles
newsContents
This month, your Board is very pleased to report that the proposal for the expansion of the awarding of the COC medal has been approved by a large majority. Twenty societies voted to accept the policy. No response was received from five societies. Two additions were made: the medal will be available to societies in good standing (have paid their COC dues for the year) and societies will send a photograph and short report for publication in the newsletter. The policy is effective immediately. Administrative procedures to provide clear guidance, especially for the new COC national award, are being developed. This policy decision is an important one as it gives each society in good standing an opportunity to annually award a COC medal. The new COC award recognizes outstanding contributions at a national level to Canadian orchidology. Our thanks again to Peter Poot for his fine work on this project.
Work is beginning on translating the culture sheets into French so these will be available to members of the Quebec societies and French-speaking orchid growing public. Julie Mertens of the Ottawa Orchid Society has kindly accepted this challenge to round out her summer holidays and will be aided by volunteers from les Orchidophiles de Quebec.
Work on the funding policy continues. The goal is to have the policy ready for approval in advance of the AGM. Speaking of which, it is time to consider early booking for the Fraser Valley Orchid Show and AGM in October 2009 in Langley B.C. (for more information, contact: Chris Ostenstad - chris@rockychoc.com).
The FVOS needs contributions from individual societies for the COC auction. It is not too early to start thinking of these things so that we have a good turnout and auction items for the AGM.
We are now quickly entering the summer season when orchids can live happily out of doors. Review the cultural articles on putting orchids out for summer and then bringing them back in in the fall.
It is also the time for orchid conservation activities. Consider a project in your locale and write and tell us what you are doing.
Have a happy summer.
Happy orchid viewing and growing.
Jean Hollebone and your Board
"Go west young man" is an old saying. The Fraser Valley Orchid Society invites "orchid fanatics" of all ages to come west to BC for the COC AGM held in conjunction with the Fraser Valley annual show - Oct. 16-18, 2009.
As one of the earliest venues to "kick off" the fall season, FVOS is widely known for its hospitality and great food! As well, this early fall show presents a unique range of flowering orchids given the time of the year.
Find out more on the www.orchidbc.ca website and plan to join us.
Canada once again has a trustee on the AOS Board of Trustees. Mario Ferrusi from Fenwick, Ontario was elected an AOS Trustee at the Houston, Texas meeting. Mario will have a tough job as AOS is still having money problems due to a fall in membership. AOS has been rationalising services and publications to match its decreased income, and of course is seeking new members. Mario is the second Canadian after Gerda Ferrington to serve on the Board.
At the same meetings Toronto student judges Joyce Medcalf from the Kingston area and Gail Schwarz from Halifax-Dartmouth were advanced to probationary judge status. Jeanne Kaeding from Rochester and also from the Toronto Centre was advanced to accredited judge. The Toronto Judging Centre has openings for more students. Any keeners out there?
Congratulations to all. Peter Poot.
In the last issue I mistakenly ascribed the WOC PowerPoint program to the wrong person. The program was provided by Robert Lucas of Saskatoon, SK., who also did the new phalaenopsis culture under artificial lights program. The full list of programs is available on the COC web site. If you are in need of a meeting program, these are a great resource as well as a way of getting members involved by having them do the presentation. Peter Poot.
Did you just recently elect a new President, COC Rep or newsletter editor? If so, please send their contact information - mailing address, phone and email to Jerry Bolce.
The COC information package was mailed out in
early March - please use it to publicize the work of the COC to
your members and use it as an information display at
upcoming shows. You can find the electronic versions
for making further copies on the COC website
here.
Please submit your COC medal winners to the COC editor for publication so we can all enjoy each
others work. Peter Poot.
Material in this newsletter or on the COC website
may be reprinted in society newsletters - just make sure
you attribute the author and the COC.
Lors de l'exposition des Orchidophiles de Québec, Orchidofolie 2009, le trophée du C.O.C. pour le présentoir le plus artistique fut attribué au présentoir des Orchidophiles du Saguenay-Lac-St-Jean. Un décor simple composé d'une petite table de bois, d'une chaise et de quelques éléments tel un livre intitulé `Be cool' ont su mettre en valeur les quelques orchidées savamment positionnées. L'attention du public était attirée par les fleurs ce qui est le but recherché lors de la fabrication de ces décors. Ceci nous démontre bien que ce n'est pas la complexité du présentoir qui doit dominer mais bien l'originalité qui saura mettre en évidence toutes les fleurs présentes.
Félicitation pour votre beau travail.
Daniel Bédard.
The Orchidophiles de Québec stage their annual show `Orchidofolie' in Québec City. This year, it was held on April 18-19 in the Envirotron of the Université de Laval. At Orchidofolie 2009, the COC trophy was awarded to the Orchidophiles du Saguenay-Lac-St-Jean for having the most artistic exhibit. Their simple design featured groupings of flowering orchids, a small wooden table, a chair, and a book titled `Be Cool'. Show visitors were attracted by the flowers and to the restful design. This exhibit clearly demonstrated that an exhibit need not be complicated but rather should serve to enhance the beauty of the orchids on display. Congratulations to the Orchidophiles du Saguenay-Lac-St-Jean for their beautiful exhibit.
Photo par/by Michael MacConaill
The COC award winning display at the Victoria Orchid Society's recent show 'The Elegance of Orchids'. The winner was Pat VanAdrichem (Kingfisher Orchids). The photo was taken by Diana Rowles.
Solid, liquid, organic, dilution, application, frequency
WHAT IS A FERTILIZER? Fertilizers are solids or liquids containing one or more plant nutrients. The most important nutrients are nitrogen (N), phosphorus (P), and potassium (K). The proportion of each is stated on the product. N-P-K, 20-20-20, 1-2-1, etc. Additionally, there may be other nutrients listed on a product including calcium (Ca), sulphur (S), magnesium (Mg), boron (B), iron (Fe), etc. While these may not be needed in large quantities they are essential to plant health.
TYPES OF FERTILIZER:
SOLID CRYSTALLINE OR POWDER - Concentrated product ready to dissolve in water when the diluted liquid should be used immediately.
LIQUID - Concentrated solution ready to dilute further with water for immediate use.
SLOW RELEASE PELLETS - solid or liquid fertilizer contained in a porous shell which leaks a bit with every watering. May be more effective at certain temperatures.
FORMULATIONS: Some products containing large amounts of P (phosphorus) are suggested to promote blooming but recent evidence suggests that less P is needed than was once thought. What is needed is a vigorous root system to absorb nutrients and this develops with enhanced N and K in the formulation.
WHICH FERTILIZER SHOULD I USE? Both solid and liquid fertilizers are suitable for orchids provided they are correctly diluted and applied when plants are actively growing. Pellets may be useful for very large vigorous plants such as Grammatophyllum and Cymbidium. Very good results have been obtained with MSU Fertilizer (19-4-23) formulated for Michigan State University and meant for use with well or tap water that already contains calcium and magnesium. There is another product for use with rainwater/reverse osmosis water/deionized water. These specialty products are available through some orchid vendors at our show.
HOW TO USE: Too much fertilizer can damage roots but infrequent application is equally ill advised. Apply a product according to manufacturer's instructions. Once a week is suggested when plants are growing well. Less frequent application is indicated during dull weather or during winter. No fertilizer should be given to dormant plants. If plants grow too quickly such that growths become soft and floppy, reduce the quantity and frequency of fertilizer application.
HOW TO APPLY: Fertilizer may be applied using a sprayer or a watering pot. Saturate the potting medium and roots with water until liquid flows freely from the pot. Drain. Apply fertilizer similarly: drain. Dipping each pot in the same pail of fertilizer solution is unsanitary and can lead to the spread of diseases.
WHEN TO APPLY: Fertilize when you would normally water. Remember to water thoroughly without fertilizer at least once a month to allow excess minerals to be flushed from the medium. Less frequent application is indicated during dull weather or winter when days are short. Do not fertilize dormant plants or those not actively growing.
From Ottawa OS Newsletter, March 2009
Copyright © Marilyn HS Light
Orchids 101 _ January 2009
Q: I read your article on importing orchids form the US and checked out the Canadian FP Agency. I spoke with someone tonight at the ISC office for eastern Canada and he told me that I needed no paperwork for fewer than 50 orchids if I was carrying them with me on a return flight from Florida (I'll be there in two weeks time) and if they were for my personal use. He did warn me to watch out for cities which I knew. The CFPA web page is not working, Do his comments sound correct to you? Thanks for taking the time to answer my question.
A: Our understanding is that bareroot orchids imported as 'houseplants' in personal baggage, not for resale, and not exceeding 50 in number (each plantlet in flask counts as one plant) may be imported from the continental USA without an Import Permit and Phytosanitary Certificate. There are some exceptions for plants of California/Oregon origin. Needless to say, the plants should be carefully inspected by you before purchase to be certain that there are no 'critters', and the plants should not be growing on wood slabs or bark. Bare root is safest and less bulky also.
CITES papers are from the country of origin and in a case such as yours, would be issued by the US Authorities only for plants originating in the US or having been imported into the continental US more than six months beforehand. Please bear in mind that not all nurseries provide paperwork or are eligible for CITES purposes.
There have been instances when plants have been detained because border staff were uncertain of the 'rules'. We have endeavoured to clarify matters but there is always a lingering concern that a problem will occur. We suggest that hobbyists take along a copy of the import directive from CFIA. This directive is currently being revised but is still in effect until a replacement is issued. http://www.canadianorchidcongress.ca/WOCImport.pdf
If they know you have consulted the rules, they tend to be less rigorous in their inspection and much more friendly.
If you make a purchase and receive CITES documentation, please be certain to immediately verify that the number of specimens, and the genus, species and hybrid grex names are correctly spelled. Avoid the use of abbreviations. The documents must be correctly dated and signed. Keep all sales receipts for customs declaration purposes.
You can use the following lists to verify the spelling of the genera/hybrid genera which are most likely to be imported.
http://www.rhs.org.uk/plants/plant_groups/orchidabbrev.pdf
http://www.rhs.org.uk/plants/plant_groups/orchidgenus.pdf
Wishing you a safe trip and successful outcome.
Sincerely
Marilyn HS Light
Conservation, Canadian Orchid Congress
Q: From CVIOS newsletter January 2009
If you or your society import orchids into Canada and you needed a new permit since June 2008 there has been one important change. I was applying for a permit for some plants from Ecuador and blundered onto something new. We can no longer request a permit for orchid species and hybrids, we must list all genera [be careful of spelling here or it slows the process down] that possibly may be in the shipments over the three year life of the permit. Technically the Directive asks for: "2.3.2 subsection three, a description and common name, scientific name (genus and species), and type (i.e. seeds, rooted cuttings, bare root plants, etc.) of the thing being imported (catalogues will not be accepted);" but, I have only been asked for genera. The government now wants to know more about what we are importing to avoid prohibited plants entering the country. Now hybrids are more work. To quote Mr. Jason Murphy, Horticulture Specialist, Horticulture Section, Canadian Food Inspection Agency, "Interspecific hybrids can be listed simply by genus, thus Phragmipedium covers all species in the genus and Phragmipedium hybrids. Intergeneric hybrids are more difficult but unless the genus of plant appearing on the phytosanitary certificate also appears on the import permit the material will be refused entry to Canada. For example, your list includes both Miltonia and Odontoglossum, if someone from your group wants to import x Odontonia when the material reaches the import service center in Canada and the officer looks at the phyto and sees x Odontonia listed but does not see it on the import permit chances are very good it will be stopped. Unfortunately listing "and hybrids" is not an option."
NOTE: The reason he is using Phragmipedium is because I had asked for that to be on my permit. Not because you can now import the species without a CITES import permit. [Editor]
In his email he also asked me to consult Directive D-97-04: Applications. http://www.inspection.gc.ca/english/plaveg/protect/dir/d-97-04e.shtml. Any of you who import should have this document to follow. It seems very clear. For those of us old enough to remember seeing the American Societies come north to add displays to our shows you might wait for D-94-31 when it is ready. Importation for "Exhibition Purposes". Now that sounds interesting if we would just have to list the genera possibly coming. I hope this helps some people as this was big surprise to me this January.
- Mike Miller
A: Prospective orchid importers wishing to apply for a Permit to Import can use the following lists to select the genera/hybrid genera which are most likely to be imported over the life of a permit. One is not bound to import all that is listed so the permit application can be generous with the selection of possible genera for importation. Chances are that what is eventually imported will fall within such a list.
Applicants might wish to consider when appropriate, to list both the 'new' intergeneric epithets as well as their synonyms. This way both Sophrolaeliocattleya and its sometime synonym, Laeliocattleya, or Colmanara and its sometimes syn. Odontocidium, would be covered.
http://www.rhs.org.uk/plants/plant_groups/orchidabbrev.pdf
http://www.rhs.org.uk/plants/plant_groups/orchidgenus.pdf
These lists cover everything that could possibly be imported genus-wise together with the correct spelling.
- Marilyn Light
By Carol Siegel
They say an orchid expert is someone who has killed more than a thousand orchids so you would think we would be experts on when something is dead. However, when it comes to orchids, you can be fooled. Plants that look dead sometimes are just resting, and flower spikes that look finished often come back and produce flowers for months.
I get calls all the time from very upset people who say that all the leaves have fallen off their orchids. They wonder what they have done wrong. Well, some orchids naturally lose their leaves. The bottom old leaf of an orchid like a phalaenopsis often dies and turns yellow. It is not your fault when some other pseudobulb sits there all naked for months on end. In October or November, the leaves of plants like Lycaste begin to turn brown and fall off preparing for the dormancy of the plant. Catasetum and some Calanthe, like Calanthe Rozel orchids, lose their leaves at a time when the dry season would naturally occur. Reduce watering to a bare minimum and keep the plant on the cool side if possible. One day a little green sprout will occur, and you can resume watering and fertilizing normally as the green sprout seems to mature over night. Some like pleiones require a completely dry rest and shut down for the winter.
Cycnoches species and hybrids, called the "Swan Orchids" are deciduous, too. One of the most beautiful is Cycnoches chlorochilon whose male flower really looks like a swan. It has several huge green to yellow flowers up to six inches across with a white lip and a column forming the shape of a swan. Don't be upset when the leaves fall off. In a few months, another swan will emerge.
Mormodes, related to Catasetum, loses its leaves as well. Although the growth looks just like a Catasetum, the flowers are highly unusual. The lips always twist and the flower spike is often slightly pendant with fragrant flowers. Mormodes, Cycnoches and Catasetum all have heavily-perfumed flowers that drive male euglossine bees wild. They collect the fragrant waxes with their little brushes on their front feet, becoming drunk, staggering around, losing all muscular control - and pollinating the orchid.
Dendrobium loddigesii and the nobile-type Dendrobium as well as the D. anosmum group should be allowed to get dry so the leaves fall off. Usually there is a bract around all or part of the pseudobulb that will turn brown when it has stopped growing. The cane also makes a terminal leaf at the top to show that it is complete. It then rests until a new shoot appears at the base of the most recent pseudobulb. Until then, just give enough watering to prevent shriveling or flower production will be way down in the spring. Relax and enjoy your rest, and don't water for a couple of months.
Galeandra is a small jewel which fools us twice. Like Catasetum and the others, it loses its leaves but fools us again by blooming again on an old spike like an equitant Oncidium. You think the spike is dead, just all played out, and then it will bloom again. DON'T CUT THAT SPIKE!! This small orchid can be in bloom for long periods before ending its blooming cycle. The pseudobulbs are only an inch wide with the inflorescence rising from the middle of its six to eight soft, matte green leaves. G. baueri and G. batemanii are easy to grow and flower. As the plant matures, it blooms consecutively for longer and longer periods, throwing clusters of five or six blooms. I had a Galeandra divas that had some buds blast, and I despaired, but soon more buds were forming.
What are some of the orchids that will bloom again on an old spike? The Butterfly Orchid, Psychopsis papilio, syn Oncidium papilio, thrusts forth one rigid elongated oval leaf, and a long wiry inflorescence emerges from the base of the pseudobulbs. Good growers can have as many as ten or more spikes, each of which can bloom every three to five weeks all year for many years until the old spikes die. Don't cut that spike or you miss all that fun. The spike may look dead—but it is not!
Encyclia cochleata, the Clamshell Orchid, can also bloom consecutively for several months on the same spike. The sheath emerges from between two sword-shaped, skinny leaves on top of the oval pseudobulb and can take several months before they flower. When mature, this orchid can bloom year-round, emitting a sweet fragrance. The flower looks like a clam shell, usually with an almost-black, purplish shell top and lime-green petals radiating from the base of the shell. Even if you repot this plant when in bloom, it will continue to flower. This one loves to bloom.
There is a group of Masdevallias that re-bloom when you don't cut the spike off. The easiest to grow is Masdevallia infracta, normally with a small purple and white flower
with yellow tails. Its re-blooming traits are transmitted to its hybrids, such as M. Pixie which can have ten or more flowers open three or four times a year. Another beautiful Masdevallia that will send out a bud weeks after the first has fallen is Masdevallia Red Wing, The flowers are intensely colored and rise high above the lovely foliage.
The perfect orchid to bloom for the home grower
is
Phalaenopsis, and several species also have this same
re-blooming orchid. Phalaenopsis amboinensis, P.
lueddemanniana and P. celebensis are
other species that keep blooming after the first flowers have faded. Most of the phals sold
by growers like Norman's Orchids will re-bloom for
months. In addition, cutting back a flower spike to a lower node
will almost always get you a second blooming on that spike.
A single plant can be in bloom for as much as nine
months!! No wonder phals are the best-selling orchids in the world.
My personal favorite among all orchids is anything phragmipedium at all. There is a group of species that do the sequential bboming trick, and the spikes last as much as six months. The spike continues to elongate, producing flower after flower after flower. I had a Sorcerer's Apprentice where I finally had to cut off the spike because it had elongated so much that it touched the ceiling!! Talk about value. Some of the easy to cultivate species are P. longifolium, P. pearcei, P. sargenteanum, P. schlimii, although the slightly more difficult P. besseae and P. boissierianum are just lovely. All their hybrids keep their flowering habit, I especially like P. Eric Young and P. Dick Clemens and P. Grande and .... Get it?
Another slipper orchid that sometimes sends out bud after bud is the genus Paphiopedilum. Paph chamberlainianum, P. glaucophyllum, P. primulinum, P. victoria regina are just some of the sequentially-flowering paphs. Many of the hybrids like P. Pinocchio (primulinum X glaucophyllum) will act in the same way,
There are many other orchids with spikes that rebloom and leaves that fall off. Just remember that when an orchid or its spike looks dead, it may be just the beginning.
From Greater Las Vegas Orchid Society Newsletter, June, 2004
Several years ago, a friend of ours had been to Australia for a WOC orchid show. She brought back a number of plants, including one Lycaste (Macama `Jocelyn' HCC/AOC x fimbriata var. lanipes), which I purchased from her.
I had earlier bought Dr. Jack Fowlie's book on Lycastes and later acquired Mr. Alcorn's book, learning a lot from both. In the records it shows that Mr. Alcorn's nursery had produced the plant in question and had it registered as Lycaste Kembla in 1984. Over the years, I had accumulated quite a nice collection of Lycastes and had started corresponding with Dr. Henry Oakeley. During the WOC in Vancouver, I had the good fortune to meet him and we are still writing back and forth about our favourite flowers. In the meantime, Dr. Oakeley and his colleague have segregated the Lycaste fimbriata section into a new species; they are to be called Ida. Dr. Oakeley has also written a great book, with lots of excellent photos, about Lycaste, Ida and Anguloa. And when the Lycaste is crossed with an Ida, the hybrid genus name is Lycida. _ So what _ you may ask.
Well, my little seedling from Australia has grown up and has flowered a few times. On this last flowering, the plant had three lovely, large, ivory flowers with icy green reverse and has been given an AOS award of 80 points; because of its pristine, cool charm, I named the clone `Morgan le Fey'. Now the whole name of my beauty is Lycida Kembla `Morgan le Fey' AM/AOS.
In my experience, this combination of Lycaste and Ida shows a very distinct shape, owing to the heavy falcate sepals of the Ida (former L. fimbriata) flowers; the Lycaste parent is giving the flowers an open shape so that they display themselves better than the nodding Idas. Mr. Colin Jennings was kind enough to send me a picture of the mother, Lyc. Macama `Jocelyn' HCC/AOC and I was surprised to see that it was a lovely deep rose colour. Ida fimbriata var. lanipes is, as most of in this species, a glowing, soft green. The luminous ivory colour in the offspring had not suggested to me that mom was not white, as I had expected.
Sadly, my flowers have not even a whiff of that honey scent from their Ida parent. My plant has been in perfect bloom now over four weeks and shows no sign of wilting.
I am thrilled that this little seedling has rewarded me with so much delight. I am also grateful to the late Mr. Fred Alcorn for creating such loveliness.
(Mrs.) Ingrid Schmidt-Ostrander, Brentwood Bay, BC
Left and above: Lycida Kembla `Morgan le Fey' AM/AOS
Right: Lycaste Macama `Jocelyn' HCC/AOC
Amongst the orchids in the Saguenay-Lac-St-Jean
display were two plants of Bifrenaria
tyrianthina. This orchid is heavily fragrant and was ideally positioned close to
the viewing public so that everyone could appreciate the
lovely scent! This Brazilian orchid is easy to grow and to
flower but is not often seen in collections. In its natural habitat,
it grows on exposed rock faces bordering rivers where
the roots nestle in rock crevices while the leaves are
subjected to bright light and temperature fluctuations. Flowering
is typically in spring with 1 to 4 deep mauve to rose
pink blooms that can last 2 to 3 months. An alba form is
known also. Bif. tyrianthina var.
alba `Buttercream' HCC/AOS was exhibited in the 2009 Ottawa show. Grow
Bif tyrianthina warm in high light (Cattleya) conditions. High humidity
and good air movement is appreciated during the
summer growing period while a short 6 to 8-week rest is
welcomed once growths have matured in October -
December. Repotting should be done in spring after the flowers
are faded and new growths/roots are beginning to appear.
Use a coarse mix to provide perfect drainage.
Left: The typical rose-pink form of Bifrenaria
tyrianthina.
Right: Bifrenaria tyrianthina `Buttercream' HCC/AOS
Photos by Michael MacConaill
The purpose of COC news is to inform members of the meetings, policies of the COC, to profile members, and to provide technical information regarding happenings, trends and techniques in orchid culivation across the country and around the world.
We welcome your suggestions and contributions. Deadline for each issue is one month before the issue dates previously announced.
Recipients of this newsletter are strongly urged to pass a copy on to other members of their society
Officers of the Canadian Orchid Congress
President Jean Hollebone
613-226-2395
Past President Faithe Prodanuk
250-542-0248
Vice-President Elsie Gerdes
250-546-1939
Vice-President Peter Poot
905-640-5643
Treasurer Margaret Hewings
905-634-7084
Secretary Carole Gert
403-949-4025
Education Mark Elliott
604-501-2136
Conservation Marilyn Light
819-776-2655
Insurance Lynne Cassidy
604-536-8185
Membership Valerie Tribes
250-503-1179
Editor Jerry Bolce
519-885-1888